Monday, July 13, 2015

Bridgewater, Trent & Mersey and Shropshire Canals

We had estimated that it would take us between 6 & 7 hours to complete the Wigan flight.  The flight consists of 21 locks (plus an extra 2 locks on the Leigh arm) over a distance of roughly 2 miles, which on the day we completed in just over 5 hours.  Well done Flo.  For us, this marked the end of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, a canal that seems not to have a very good reputation, but from our point of view had become one of our favourite trips.

We were now heading south on the Bridgewater Canal on a route we had travelled 2 years previously on our way to Liverpool.  Moored just short of Worsley we got to chatting with a couple of guys that were carrying what looked like a pair of expensive cameras.  They were keen aircraft buffs and were waiting for a Vulcan bomber that had flight path that should take in over our location.  What a bit of luck when, at the exact time they had predicted, the Vulcan flew at reasonably low level directly overhead.
Vulcan Bomber
We passed through the small village of Worsley the day after the Vulcan fly pass.  Today it’s a conservation area with many buildings scheduled as ancient monuments.  If you are not a canal user you probably won’t realise that Worsley is considered as the birthplace of the ‘transport revolution’ at its height of the ‘revolution’ it was a busy, noisy, industrial area.  The Bridgewater Canal was the brainchild of the Duke of Bridgewater, who after visiting the French canals, wanted a system that would move the coal from his mines throughout the area.  Rather than bring his coal to the surface he had built underground canals, from the coal face and onto the Bridgewater Canal. In total nearly 52 miles of underground canal were built by pick and shovel.

The Packet House Worsley


 Note the colour of the canal - it's water draining from the old mines that makes the canal orange.  This is because water seeping through the rocks collects small particles containing iron hydroxide, called ochre. The particles are washed into the canal giving it a 'rusty' colour.
Passed Manchester, down through Sale and Altrincham and onto Lymm, possibly one of the most picturesque canal villages on the network, stopped for shopping and an excellent lunch at the Golden Fleece before moving down the cut and mooring close to Higher Walton.

Lymm

Lymm
 
Lymm

Lymm
The weather was very hot, sunny and humid.  We had a lovely walk around Moore Nature Reserve then back to the boat for a well-earned glass of wine and BBQ.  We stayed put at this mooring to enable a walk to Walton Hall Gardens which were very pretty.  As the hall was no longer a residence only the outside features have been maintained as a period property. That evening produced a spectacular display of heavy rain, thunder, lightning and hail.

Walton Hall
The next day took us on to the Trent & Mersey Canal and on by the Anderton Boat Lift.  Constructed in 1875 it connects the Trent & Mersey with the Weaver Navigation 50ft below.  We’d  used the lift before so we didn’t stop, continuing to chug to the evening’s mooring opposite a broad flash (wide expanse) of water.  Which once again showed its best during the evening after another warm day.  Really magical, even if our photos don’t do it justice.

Anderton Lift Bridge
Anderton Lift Bridge
The Flash
We left the Trent and Mersey Canal at Middlewich and joined the Shropshire Canal heading for Nantwich.  It was important that we stopped at Nantwich as the first test against Australia starts in a week’s time and our radio as given up the ghost.  Ken desperately needs to replace it and is considering DAB reception.  Advice is required.

Left Nantwich to go through 15 locks and passing by the Shroppie Fly at Audlem before mooring after lock 3. Once again weather is kind to us and is bright and sunny.  Next day through 7 more locks to Market Drayton and moored for the night.
Shroppie Fly
Stopped at Norbury Junction for diesel and then continued until reaching Gnosall Heath. By this time the weather had turned wet and we decided to moor for the day.  Next day dawned bright and sunny and after shopping in the village we did a 6 mile circular walk along a disused railway and then across open country.
England won -  thumping Australia with a day to spare in the first Ashes Test.

Next Brewood.  

Monday, July 6, 2015

Still on the Leeds & Liverpool Canal


Still in Gargrave and as it was still warm and sunny  we decided to walk one last time on the Pennine Way before heading on down the cut.  A short route of about 5 or 6 mile up onto Eshton Moor, then dropping down into the valley near Bell Busk and following the River Aire for a short distance before  returning  to Bacchus via the Moor. A welcome shower and glass of wine was the order of the day.
On the Pennine Way

Trig point 206 - Eshton Moor.

River Aire
The Foulridge Tunnel soon followed, being 1500mtrs long and famous for the tale of Buttercup, a cow who in 1912 fell into the canal at the southern end and ‘swam’ through to the other end where she was revived with brandy from the local pub.  Due to its width passage through the tunnel is one direction at a time and is controlled by traffic lights.

Foulridge Tunnel showing traffic lights
After the tunnel our journey took us through the Lancashire towns of Nelson, Burnley, Accrington and Blackburn.  These towns grew up on the back of King Cotton;  for example Blackburn, during the 19th century had 200 chimneys and a landscape of factories and mills.  In 1910 there were 87,377 looms in the town employing 42,000 workers, many of them were children as young as 12.  Though most of this industry has now disappeared much of the Victorian and Edwardian architecture is still evident from the canal.
 

Burnley Wharf
 Burnley Wharf is a fine collection of 19th century stone and grey slate canal side warehouses and workshops.  The Inn occupies the former Toll and Wharf Manager's House built in 1878.

Daiseyfield Mill Blackburn
 

Eanam Wharf
Eanam Wharf, Blackburn was one of Leeds & Liverpool's most significant depots.  Twenty-five thousand locals gathered to see its opening in 1810.


This picture was taken from the bow of Bacchus at our mooring at Riley Green.
It was nice to leave the industrial towns and return to the countryside and we moored  at Riley Green, not a village that you would be expected to know, but a good mooring and ideal for a circular walk we had planned that took in a visit to Hoghton Tower.

Our circular walk from Riley Green took us along the canal towards Feniscowles where we turned northwards and followed the River Darwen for some miles.

River Darwen

Waiting for Flo to catch up - again!

River Darwen



Hoghton Tower.
Hoghton Tower is the ancestral home of the de Hoghton family.  650ft above sea level this ancient fortified manor house has remained unchanged since its restoration in 1565.

Drive way leading to Hoghton Tower.

Hoghton Tower courtyard.

Progress - it seems to have taken for ever since leaving Leeds.  The Leeds & Liverpool Canal has become one of our favourite journeys.
 
Next the Wigan flight of 21 locks and onto the Bridgewater Cana